Chanel and That Jacket, American Sewing Expo 2012

Claire Shaeffer describes herself as a "garment engineer".  Visiting Parisian couture workooms, dissecting haute couture garments, interviewing Savile Row workers and collecting Chanel - owns over a 1,000 Chanel and couture garments, Claire knows couture techniques and gleefully shares them.  Admiring students - and recently I was one - hung on every word and technique Claire shared.

A Chanel Jacket from Claire's Collection
Along with Chanel Inspired Jackets

Last week at the American Sewing Expo in Novi, MI, I had the pleasure of taking Claire's class.  I consider myself a quilter, but my sewing started with garments and I find myself increasingly enjoying garment construction.  At first I thought I might be in over my head taking this intense hands-on couture level class, Chanel and That Jacket.  However as the class progressed I learned I already knew and already use many basic techniques such as quilting and many hand stitches.  The difference - huge differences - in couture is fit, time, patience and thoughtfulness that goes into the garment construction, or in one word, craftsmanship.  Oh, yes . . . money is a huge difference too.

Juliette Shows Her Couture Techniques
Including the Quilted Jacket Body

The class had 30 students.  Through a drawing we buddied up to use Pfaff machines.  Juliette was my new sewing buddy from Austin, TX.  Juliette is an avid sewist and already made Claire's Chanel inspired Vogue Pattern #8804.  Her sewing techniques, quilting and use of chain weight on the hem were skillful and no wonder, Juliette along with half the class were members of The Association of Sewing and Design Professionals. 

The primary focus of our class were the intricacies of couture techniques applied to a three piece sleeve that Chanel avidly used.  I learned about generous seam allowances, thread tracing and quilting techniques.  We did lots of hand work.  When we machine stitched Claire said she uses SCHMETZ, so of course I had to make a video.  Find our which three SCHMETZ needles are Claire's favorites.  She also prefers to use the Swiss Iris Super Fine Pins - the ones in the adorable little blue Klip-Klap tin.

Claire is An Avid Writer and Educator

Except for this American Sewing Expo class, Claire has cut back on her traveling and now teaches an intensive 5 day workshop in Palm Springs only twice a year.  Lucky for us her knowledge is easily available in books, magazine articles including Threads and Vogue Patterns, and DVDs.  In February 2013 Claire's new book will be released,  Couture Sewing Tailoring Techniques.  I can hardly wait to get my copy. 

Rhonda Pierce and Claire Shaeffer

Thanks Claire for a terrific class.  Learning about thread tracing, easy bound buttonholes, creating trims and the importance of hand basting, you inspired me to sew for better fit and mostly . . . . craftsmenship.
Sew SCHMETZ!
Rhonda
www.americansewingexpo.com
www.sewingprofessionals.org
www.SCHMETZneedles.com

Sewing Machine Needle: Anatomy

The SCHMETZ needle, that little 2" piece of steel, is one of the most important parts to your home sewing machine.  Your machine cannot operate without a needle, right?  Insert it wrong, and your machine will not work.  Use an incorrect needle and your stitches will be less than desirable.  Use a dull or bent needle and you risk damaging your machine, fabric and thread.  In other words the SCHMETZ needle is an essential work horse. Over the next few weeks, let's Get To The Point with SCHMETZ needle facts.

When was the last time you looked at, I mean really looked closely at your sewing machine needle?  There are eight parts to needle anatomy:

From top to bottom, let's review needle parts and their important functions:

• Butt:  The very top of your needle has a beveled edge for easier insertion into your machine.
• Shank:  Home sewing needles have a flat shank for perfect positioning in the needle bar in relation to the hook. 
• Shoulder:  The transitioning area between the shank and the blade.  SCHMETZ color codes 5 needle types on the shoulder for easier identification.
• Blade:  The length of the needle.  Needle size is determined by measuring the blade diameter.
• Groove:  Cradles and guides thread to the eye of the needle.
• Scarf:  The indentation above the eye that allows the bobbin hook to smoothly grab the thread under the throat plate to create a stitch.
• Eye:  The hole through which thread passes. 
• Point and Tip: The first area to penetrate fabric in stitch creation.  The point and tip length, shape and size vary according to needle types.

Next week we will review How to Read A Needle Package.
Sew SCHMETZ!
Rhonda

Fashion Sewing Design Contest, IPCA

Here's just the Ticket To Paradise . . .  a terrific fashion sewing contest recently announced by the Independent Pattern Company Alliance - IPCA.  Winners will be announced March 3, 2013 at the Sewing and Stitchery Expo in Puyallup, WA.  Great prizes include a fabulous Baby Lock Symphony sewing machine.  The Grand Prize winner will be invited to the International Textile Expo in Las Vegas also in March.  Sounds exciting doesn't it!

Here's how to enter: 

1. Visit www.patterncompanies.com to discover all the pattern companies included in the contest.
2. Choose a pattern from the IPCA members' pattern collection, then free your imagination using the theme "Ticket to Paradise".
3. Stitch up your garment or outfit using your personal vision of  Ticket to Paradise.
4. Submit an entry form with at least 2 photos of your completed entry to the appropriate IPCA member company.
5. Entries are due by January 25, 2013.

Who's the IPCA?  Just as the name suggests, these independent designers formed a coalition to promote their creative pattern designs.  When you buy a pattern from an IPCA member, you are assured that it has been professionally drafted, professionally graded for multiple sizing and include comprehensive illustrated pattern guides.

I'm thinking Ticket to Paradise in a great chance to showcase your design and technique skills. 
Sew SCHMETZ!
Rhonda

www.patterncompanies.com

Sew It! International Sewing Month

September is International Sewing Month.  The kids are back in school and it's time to schedule sewing time back into the daily routine.  First stop, your local independent sewing dealer.  Look for this promotional sign for participation in International Sewing Month activities, an annual nation-wide event. 

You could win a $600 gift certificate as the grand prize drawing winner.  Sweet!  How would you spend an unexpected $600 windfall?  Your local dealer will show you lots of opportunities to win great prizes from favorite manufacturers including Coats and Clark, Janome America, McCall Patterns, Nancy's Notions, Sulky to name just a few, plus yours truly . . . . SCHMETZ needles.



SCHMETZ Gift Boxes
Prizes for International Sewing Month

Your local independent sewing machine dealer is eager to greet you.  Over the summer dealers traveled to their machine annual conferences to stay current with sewing machine product lines, techniques and education.  Whether you need a basic machine for a grandchild new to sewing or a fully loaded machine with all the bells and whistles for yourself, your local independent dealer has been trained to find the right machine for you. 

 

Baby Lock Endurance with bells and whistles for fast and easy embroidery
Baby Lock Tech 2012

Your local independent sewing dealer is a wealth of information and friendship just waiting for you to walk through the doors.  Sewing is fun . . .  and sewing is especially fun when you can win great prizes this month through your local dealer during International Sewing Month. 
Sew SCHMETZ!
Rhonda

Biggest Beatles Fan Quilts

It's not every day I meet a quilter that diligently translated her undying devotion into Beatles quilts.   Quilts, that right - not just one Beatles quilt, but two!  Meet Lynda Martello, affectionately called loco Beatles fan by her friends and colleagues at The Sewing and Vacuum Place in Santa Rosa, CA.  Wow!  Lynda's Beatles quilts have won all sorts of ribbons and its no wonder, these two quilts are outstanding.

Lynda's quilt blocks represent Beatles albums and .....

song lines...  

Lynda collected fabrics for 12 years ...

 

After having her original Beatles quilts stolen, Lynda diligently labels ALL her quilts. 

Lynda's quilts now hang in the safety of The Sewing and Vacuum Place in Santa Rosa, CA. 

Pam holding the SCHMETZ "Super Needle and Lynda 

Next time you visit beautiful Sonoma Valley, drop by The Sewing and Vacuum Place - a Baby Lock dealer - to take a look at these remarkable quilts.  Pam Cortese, owner of The Sewing and Vacuum Place, and Lynda love to talk about sewing and quilting.  Without a doubt, you will be inspired!
Sew SCHMETZ!
Rhonda

www.mysewvacplace.com

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4-H Fashion On The Runway, Penn State

Over 100 years ago 4-H Clubs were organized by agricultural schools to educate youth and their families in rural communities.  Today through 109 land-grant universities and Cooperative Extension Services, 4-H programs reach more than 6 million kids in urban, suburban and rural communities.  With over half a million volunteers, 3,500 professionals and more than 60 million alumni, 4-H kids from elementary to high school "learn by doing."

Last week I drove through lush gentle mountains that wound into a green well manicured valley.  After making a few wrong turns and attempting to avoid street construction, my 4-H journey began at Penn State University in State College, PA.



4-H is about learning and sharing.  Gabby was my ever cheerful and helpful assistant.  Growing up Gabby was an active 4-H member with many sewing projects and today was a walk down memory lane.  Even now while studying to be a physician's assistant, Gabby took the time to help with the 2012 4-H Fashion Review.

Fashion Review day was conducted with precision.  Sandra, Maureen, Linda and the 4-H volunteers set -up a terrific day of learning.  From 9:00am to 2:45pm 4-H participants attended workshops on careers in fashion and design, pattern making, a design challenge, wool felting and SCHMETZ needle education.

My first students of the day with the SCHMETZ Super Needle.

60 Fashion Revue contenders won their local and regional sewing competitions before reaching this state level. The young ladies - no guys this year -  filed into the auditorium for their preliminary walk through on the stage . . .

while the official judges also preview garments for the first time.

Competition was tight.  Workmanship, style and sewing techniques were high. Judges announced winners that evening at a formal runway fashion show with lights, music and narration.

I taught 6 SCHMETZ classes and fielded questions from the astute audiences.  The girls were certainly present to learn and to meet new friends.  Being part of the day's excitement I recalled the 4-H pledge: 

"I pledge my head to clearer thinking,
My heart to greater loyalty,
My hands to larger service,
and my health to better living,
for my club, my community, my country, and my world."

4-H is a terrific organization for kids to learn new skills, develop leadership, serve communities and build confidence while expanding their worlds.  It was a joy to be among these attentive and friendly 4-Her's that were eager to learn and explore.  To find a local 4-H club in your community and to learn more about 4-H visit www.4-h.org. 
Sew SCHMETZ!
Rhonda

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4-H Blue Ribbon Sewing

Sewing is a year round activity, but many 4-H members have been power stitching during the summer heat in high anticipation of upcoming county and state fairs.  They have scoped out their local quilt and fabric shops in search of the perfect fabrics, while 4-H leaders all along the way provide learning activities and guidance.  A few have probably become quite proficient with the seam zipper too, but really who is not master of the seam ripper?  We all do it.  Ripping out is part of the sewing process.

Amanda Power Sewing with Perfect Posture

Amanda is sewing a dress for the Keith County Fair in Nebraska.  After finishing one dress, she moves on to the next project . . .

Fabric selection, precision cutting, precise matching, straight seams and some laughs with friends, Amanda finished her quilt in only 3 days.

With thoughts of blue ribbons, meeting new friends and checking out competing projects, the season of complete 4-H projects has arrived.  Next week I will be part of the excitement at the Pennsylvania 4-H State Fashion Revue.  60 participants that have already won their regional event, will again compete for top state awards.  During the day they will attend workshops on garment construction techniques, design, and careers in fashion and textiles, while I will Get To The Point with my SCHMETZ needle class.   Stay tuned, I will post my PA 4-H day.  Until then, good luck to Amanda and all her Nebraska friends on their 4-H sewing projects!
Sew SCHMETZ!
Rhonda

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